This guide provides essential travel tips and practical advice for navigating Kanagawa Prefecture. From transportation passes to safety information, you will find everything you need for a smooth and enjoyable trip. I spent several weeks traveling through Kanagawa to bring you this first-hand guide based on personal experience. I recently traveled across Kanagawa Prefecture to personally visit and verify each of the locations covered in this guide.
Introduction
Staying at a Japanese ryokan comes with its own set of customs and etiquette. This guide covers everything from wearing yukata to onsen manners, dining protocol, and check-in procedures — helping you feel confident during your stay.
Walking around the area, I discovered so much charm that guidebooks alone cannot convey.
💬 Traveler’s Note: I stayed at a ryokan in Hakone and tried wearing a yukata for the first time — folding the collar and crossing left over right took a few tries. I recommend asking the staff to show you once; the onsen and dinner manners I was taught there made the whole stay feel effortless.
👘 Wearing Yukata: The Complete Guide
How to Put On a Yukata
| Step | Action | Detail |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Put on the yukata | Hold it open, slide arms through. Collar ~10cm from neck at back |
| 2 | Cross left over right | Left over right (right front). NEVER right over left (funeral attire) |
| 3 | Secure with himo string | Wrap first himo at waist, tie in front. Second himo at hip level |
| 4 | Adjust collar | Men: collar close to neck. Women: collar pulled back slightly |
| 5 | Tie the obi belt | Flat obi in front, bring ends to back, cross, return to front, tie in bow |
| 6 | Final adjustments | Check sides are even, collar is straight, hem at ankle length |
Kanagawa Ryokan Etiquette Guide 2026nn## OverviewnnRyokan have specific customs that differ from Western hotels, Understanding them enhances your experience and shows respect.nn## EnteringnnRemove shoes at genkan (entrance). Put on provided slippers. Remove slippers before stepping onto tatami. Bow when greeting staff.nn## Your RoomnnWalk on tatami gently — no stomping or dragging luggage. Sit on zabuton cushions. Don’t step on zabuton with indoor slippers. The tokonoma (alcove) is decorative — don’t place items there.nn## YukatannAfter settling in, change into provided yukata (cotton robe). Wear with left side over right (right over left is for funerals). Obi belt tied at back or side. Wear yukata to onsen and around the ryokan.nn## Kaiseki DinnernnDinner is served in your room or private dining area. Sit seiza (formal kneeling) or cross-legged. Bow before eating (itadakimasu). Compliment the food (oishii desu). Don’t leave food uneaten.nn## OnsennnUse provided towels (small for drying, large for modesty). Wash thoroughly at shower stations before entering bath. No swimsuits. Towel on head. Don’t run or splash. Inform staff if you want to use private bath.nn## Check-OutnnStrip futon bedding. Place yukata in provided bag. Leave room as found. Pay any extras. Bow and thank staff. Shoes will be waiting at genkan.nn
Access
Getting to Kanagawa from Tokyo is straightforward by train, and most routes take well under two hours. During my trips I relied on an IC card for every connection and kept a bus timetable saved on my phone as backup. If you are staying overnight, look for accommodation near the station to save time.
Overview
🍽️ Kaiseki Dinner Etiquette
Kaiseki is a multi-course Japanese dinner served at ryokan. Here’s how to navigate it with confidence:
Before the Meal
- Say “Itadakimasu” (いただきます) before eating — it means “I humbly receive”
- Use the oshibori (wet towel) to wipe your hands, not your face
- Arrange dishes as they are placed — don’t rearrange the serving order
During the Meal
| Course | How to Eat | Common Mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Sakizuke (appetizer) | Eat in order presented | Skipping the smallest dish |
| Mukozuke (sashimi) | Dip fish in soy sauce, not rice | Drowning in soy sauce |
| Yakimono (grilled fish) | Eat from the left side, don’t flip | Flipping the whole fish |
| Nimono (simmered) | Drink broth from bowl | Using spoon for broth |
| Gohan + Miso shiru (rice + soup) | Eat rice and soup alternately | Eating all rice first |
| Mizumono (dessert) | Eat with provided pick or spoon | Using chopsticks for fruit |
Chopstick Rules
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don’t |
|---|---|
| Rest chopsticks on hashioki (rest) | Stick chopsticks upright in rice (funeral) |
| Use the opposite end to take shared food | Pass food chopstick-to-chopstick (funeral) |
| Hold chopsticks correctly (lower finger stable) | Point with chopsticks |
| Place chopsticks parallel on rest when pausing | Lick or bite chopsticks |
After the Meal
- Say “Gochisosama deshita” (ごちそうさまでした) — “Thank you for the feast”
- Replace the lids on bowls as they were
- Place chopsticks back on the rest
♨️ Onsen Etiquette at Ryokan
Step by Step
- Enter the changing room (脱衣所). Remove all clothing. Place in basket or locker.
- Take a small towel (provided) for drying. Take a larger towel for after.
- Wash thoroughly at the shower station. Sit on the small stool. Use the handheld shower. Wash hair, body, everything.
- Rinse completely — no soap residue allowed in the bath.
- Enter the bath (quietly). The small towel goes on your head or beside the bath — NEVER in the water.
- Soak for 10-15 minutes. Exit, cool down, re-enter if desired.
- Towel off in the changing room. Do not drip water from the bath area to the changing area.
Key Rules
| Rule | Why |
|---|---|
| No swimsuits | Onsen are for naked bathing (Yunessun is exception) |
| No towels in water | Towels are unhygienic in shared water |
| No photography | Privacy for all guests |
| No running | Wet floors are dangerously slippery |
| Tattoo check | Some onsen restrict — check policy in advance |
| Gender separation | Men and women have separate baths — don’t enter the wrong one |
🏯 Entering and Exiting a Ryokan
Check-In
- Remove shoes at the genkan (entrance). Place in provided shoe locker. Take the key.
- Put on indoor slippers. These are for hallways only.
- Wait in the lounge — you’ll be served tea and a sweet. Check-in forms will be brought to you.
- Staff will escort you to your room, explaining facilities along the way.
- Enter your room: Remove slippers before stepping onto tatami. Bow slightly upon entering.
In Your Room
- Sit on zabuton cushions — seiza (kneeling) is formal, but cross-legged is fine for men, side-sitting for women
- Don’t touch the tokonoma (alcove) — it’s decorative, not for storing your belongings
- Clear the low table before futon is laid out (staff will do this)
- Futon is laid while you’re at dinner — don’t rearrange the futon placement
Check-Out
- Strip the futon — fold the top futon in thirds and place at the foot of the bottom futon
- Fold your yukata and place it in the provided bag
- Leave the room as you found it — tidy up any personal items
- Pay any extras at the front desk (drinks, private onsen fees, purchases)
- Bow and thank staff — “Arigato gozaimashita”
- Your shoes will be waiting at the genkan, placed facing outward for easy stepping
How to Get There
To experience ryokan etiquette in Hakone: Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto (85 minutes). Hakone has the highest concentration of ryokan where you can practice etiquette.
To experience traditional inns in Kamakura: JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo to Kamakura Station (1 hour). Some temples offer Buddhist lodging (shukubo) with etiquette instruction.
To experience tea ceremony etiquette: Take the JR Tokaido Line to Yokohama Station, then transfer to the Minato Mirai Line. Several cultural centers offer tea ceremony experiences with etiquette guidance.
To experience kaiseki dining etiquette: Many high-end restaurants in Yokohama’s Minato Mirai and Kannai areas offer kaiseki courses where etiquette is part of the experience.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Q: What should I wear at a ryokan?
A:** A: Change into the provided yukata after checking in. Wear it for dinner, onsen visits, and around the ryokan. In colder months, wear the tanzen (haori-style jacket) over it. Socks (tabi) are provided — wear them indoors on wooden floors, remove before tatami.
Q: Q: Should I fold my yukata a certain way?
A:** A: Yes — left side over right (right front). Never right over left, which is funeral attire. The obi goes at waist level, tied at the back or side. If you’re unsure, ask staff — they’re happy to help.
Q: Q: What’s the proper way to enter a tatami room at a ryokan?
A:** A: Remove slippers BEFORE stepping onto tatami. Bow slightly at the threshold. Step onto tatami with socks or bare feet. Sit on the zabuton — seiza (kneeling) is formal, cross-legged is acceptable for men, side-sitting for women.
Q: Q: How do I behave during kaiseki dinner?
A:** A: Wait for the phrase “Itadakimasu” before starting. Use chopsticks properly — don’t stick upright in rice (funeral). Sip soup from the bowl. Don’t pass food between chopsticks. Compliment the meal: “Oishii desu” (it’s delicious). Say “Gochisosama deshita” after finishing.
Q: Q: What’s the checkout procedure at a ryokan?
A:** A: Checkout is 10 AM. Strip the futon (fold top futon in thirds, place at foot of bottom futon). Fold yukata into provided bag. Staff will escort you out. Your shoes will be waiting at the entrance, facing outward. No tipping — a sincere thank you is sufficient.
Conclusion
The details in this guide come from real visits, and the biggest lesson I took away was that the best experiences in Kanagawa rarely fit neatly into a checklist. During my visit I went with a rough plan and found that leaving room to wander made the trip far more memorable. Plan the essentials, keep your schedule flexible, and you will leave Kanagawa wanting to return.